Renée Kohlman: Raspberry and rosewater jelly roll summer dessert

With a nostalgic charm that hearkens back to a time when phones had cords and music was played on cassette tapes, jelly rolls are always timeless.

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Many, many moons ago, I was a keen Home Economics student. In that classroom, I learned how to whip egg whites into terrific meringue, sew in a zipper, and how it’s always a good idea to have a full sink of hot soapy water so you can wash dishes as you go. Truth be told, I haven’t sewn anything that needs a zipper since 1991, but I do try to wash dishes as I use them, and my meringue is still pretty darn terrific. Home Ec is also the first place where I rolled my first jelly roll. It was epic! An impressive cake, with so many tasty variations, it’s always a good idea to have a jelly roll recipe in your back pocket.

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Whether you call them jelly rolls, roulades or Swiss rolls, these rolled cakes are easy enough even for beginner bakers. Baked in shallow sheet pans (known as jelly roll pans, in fact!), the batter bakes quickly, then it can be cooled, filled, rolled and garnished in no time flat. The batter is typically a sponge, but for this recipe, I used a simple meringue which makes it nice and light, and also acceptable for those avoiding gluten. Egg whites and sugar, when beaten together, really are magic. Fillings can include whipped cream, jam, mousses and citrus curds, but given how this is peak berry season, I love whipped cream and raspberries.

The trickiest part is the rolling, but just be sure to read the recipe thoroughly before beginning and you should be fine. And, if there are any unfortunate cracks, just garnish the top with more whipped cream and berries, and no one will ever know.

Light, pretty, festive and incredibly photogenic, this meringue jelly roll can be the show-stopping dessert for a summer patio party. With a nostalgic charm that hearkens back to a time when phones had cords and music was played on cassette tapes, jelly rolls are always timeless.

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Raspberry and Rosewater Meringue Jelly Roll

This is a lovely cake to enjoy in the summer, when fruit is at its finest, and a light, not-too-sweet dessert is desired. Feel free to substitute blackberries, blueberries, Saskatoon berries, even chopped peaches or nectarines. The jelly roll feeds a crowd especially well.

2 tsp canola or other cooking oil

6 large egg whites, at room temperature

11/3 cups granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling

1 Tbsp cornstarch

1 tsp white vinegar

11/4 cups whipping cream

1 tsp rosewater

3 cups fresh raspberries

1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the rack in the centre of the oven. Line a rimmed 13×17¾-inch baking sheet with parchment paper, ensuring that it goes up the sides by a couple of inches. Brush the paper (including the sides) lightly with the oil.

2. Put the egg whites in a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and beat on high speed until light, fluffy and stiff peaks form. In a small bowl, combine the sugar and cornstarch. Stir

until no lumps remain. With the mixer still running, add the sugar-cornstarch mixture gradually, about 1 Tbsp at a time. Beat on high for another 3-4 minutes. The whites should be glossy and very thick, and should hold their shape when lifted out of the bowl. Beat in the white vinegar. Use a rubber spatula to lightly spread the mixture onto the prepared baking pan, getting it as even as you can, right to the edges. Smooth the top so it is quite flat. An offset spatula works great for this.

3. Place the pan in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Turn down the heat to 325°F and bake for

15 minutes longer. The meringue should be golden on top. Place a sheet of wax paper on your

countertop and sprinkle it generously with granulated sugar. Remove the meringue from the oven and carefully invert it onto the wax paper. Gently peel off the parchment paper and cover the meringue lightly with plastic wrap. Leave it to cool completely.

4. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the whipping cream on high speed until thick. With the mixer running on low, beat in the rosewater. Remove the plastic wrap from the meringue and slather the surface with the whipped cream, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Scatter the raspberries all over the cream. Starting with the long edge closest to you, carefully roll the meringue up snuggly. Use the wax paper to help you. Transfer to a long serving platter or cutting board and let it stand for 30 minutes before serving. Slice using a sharp serrated knife. The meringue roll is best eaten the day it is made, but leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.

Notes: Rosewater can be found in large supermarkets in the international foods aisle or in Middle Eastern grocery stores. The rosewater enhances the raspberry flavour, but vanilla or almond extract could be substituted.

Recipe adapted from All the Sweet Things, by Renee Kohlman (TouchWood Editions, 2017).

Renée Kohlman has been cooking and baking professionally for over 20 years. Her best-selling debut cookbook, All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions), received accolades at the 2018 Taste Canada Awards. Her second cookbook, Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions), was named one of the top 100 books in 2021 by The Globe and Mail. Renée is often in her kitchen, baking gourmet cookies, which she sells at the Saskatoon Farmers’ Market every weekend.

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